The World of Web Edges: Discover the Diversity of Selvedge Denim
Not all selvedge is created equal. Those who delve deep into the world of premium denim quickly realize that the iconic selvedge edge is just the beginning. Traditional mills in Japan and around the world experiment with irregular yarns, special weaving techniques, and unique color combinations to create fabrics with distinctive character. From extremely textured "slub" denim to colorful selvedge IDs – here you'll discover the fascinating variations available and which denim is best suited for your next project.
The selvedge often has a colored thread woven into it – the so-called selvedge ID. The most famous is the red thread ("Redline"), which Levi's used to distinguish its fabrics from those of its competitors. Today, weaving mills use a wide variety of colors (blue, green, pink, or even gold) to mark specific fabric qualities, weight classes, or limited editions.
The selvedge often has a colored thread woven into it – the so-called selvedge ID. The most famous is the red thread ("Redline"), which Levi's used to distinguish its fabrics from those of its competitors. Today, weaving mills use a wide variety of colors (blue, green, pink, or even gold) to mark specific fabric qualities, weight classes, or limited editions.
Slub denim is woven with yarns that are intentionally spun to be uneven in thickness and thinness. On old shuttle looms, this creates a very irregular, rough, and tangibly textured surface. As it breaks in (fades), slub denim produces extremely high-contrast and vibrant patterns, which is why it is particularly sought after by denim enthusiasts.
Slub denim is woven with yarns that are intentionally spun to be uneven in thickness and thinness. On old shuttle looms, this creates a very irregular, rough, and tangibly textured surface. As it breaks in (fades), slub denim produces extremely high-contrast and vibrant patterns, which is why it is particularly sought after by denim enthusiasts.
With nep denim, tiny, often white cotton knots protrude from the surface of the deep blue fabric. This gives the denim a slightly speckled appearance, reminiscent of light snowfall on the fabric. This texture is created by special preparation of the cotton fibers before spinning and gives the jeans a wonderfully rustic vintage look.
With nep denim, tiny, often white cotton knots protrude from the surface of the deep blue fabric. This gives the denim a slightly speckled appearance, reminiscent of light snowfall on the fabric. This texture is created by special preparation of the cotton fibers before spinning and gives the jeans a wonderfully rustic vintage look.
Yes! The standard is "Right-Hand Twill," where the diagonal lines in the fabric run upwards to the right – it produces clear, sharp fades. "Left-Hand Twill" runs upwards to the left and makes the fabric noticeably softer after wear. A special feature is "Broken Twill," where the weave direction alternates in a zigzag pattern, which prevents the typical twisting of the pant leg (leg twist).
Yes! The standard is "Right-Hand Twill," where the diagonal lines in the fabric run upwards to the right – it produces clear, sharp fades. "Left-Hand Twill" runs upwards to the left and makes the fabric noticeably softer after wear. A special feature is "Broken Twill," where the weave direction alternates in a zigzag pattern, which prevents the typical twisting of the pant leg (leg twist).
Fabric weight (measured in ounces/oz) determines how the jeans feel and behave. Lightweight fabrics (under 12 oz) are perfect for summer and very comfortable. Mid-weights (12-15 oz) are the classic all-rounders. Heavyweight denims (16 oz to over 20 oz) are extremely stiff, require a real "break-in period," but reward you with the most spectacular, sharp fades.
Fabric weight (measured in ounces/oz) determines how the jeans feel and behave. Lightweight fabrics (under 12 oz) are perfect for summer and very comfortable. Mid-weights (12-15 oz) are the classic all-rounders. Heavyweight denims (16 oz to over 20 oz) are extremely stiff, require a real "break-in period," but reward you with the most spectacular, sharp fades.
