Heavy Denim: No compromise on weight and character
When classic denim reaches its limits, it’s time for heavy denim. These extremely dense and heavy fabrics are not for the faint of heart (or weak sewing machines), but they reward you with incomparable durability and character. A garment made of heavy denim is stiff and stubborn at first, but it adapts to your body more with every wear until it fits like a second skin. Here, you'll learn at what point denim is truly considered "heavy" and what you absolutely must keep in mind when working with it.
The fabric weight of denim is measured in ounces per square yard (oz). A normal, medium-weight denim fabric usually ranges between 10 and 13 oz. "Heavy denim" is generally considered to be 15 oz and above. The scale is open-ended: true denim enthusiasts wear and work with fabrics weighing 18 oz, 21 oz, or in extreme cases, even up to 25 oz and more.
The fabric weight of denim is measured in ounces per square yard (oz). A normal, medium-weight denim fabric usually ranges between 10 and 13 oz. "Heavy denim" is generally considered to be 15 oz and above. The scale is open-ended: true denim enthusiasts wear and work with fabrics weighing 18 oz, 21 oz, or in extreme cases, even up to 25 oz and more.
This is due to the enormous amount of thick cotton yarns that are woven very tightly together, as well as the starch (often cornstarch) added to the threads before weaving to make them more robust. Heavy denim literally needs to be "broken in." After a few weeks of wear, the starch breaks down, the fibers relax, and the fabric becomes surprisingly soft.
This is due to the enormous amount of thick cotton yarns that are woven very tightly together, as well as the starch (often cornstarch) added to the threads before weaving to make them more robust. Heavy denim literally needs to be "broken in." After a few weeks of wear, the starch breaks down, the fibers relax, and the fabric becomes surprisingly soft.
Yes, and that's precisely why it's so sought after! Because the fabric is so stiff, very sharp, firm creases form behind the knees (honeycombs) and at the hips (whiskers) that don't shift. When the indigo dye rubs off these rigid creases, extremely high-contrast, almost three-dimensional fades are created, which wouldn't be possible with lighter denim.
Yes, and that's precisely why it's so sought after! Because the fabric is so stiff, very sharp, firm creases form behind the knees (honeycombs) and at the hips (whiskers) that don't shift. When the indigo dye rubs off these rigid creases, extremely high-contrast, almost three-dimensional fades are created, which wouldn't be possible with lighter denim.
Patience and machine control are key. When sewing over thick seam intersections (where there are often three or four layers of heavy fabric on top of each other), you should release the foot pedal and turn the handwheel manually. Also, be sure to use a height compensation plate (hump jumper) to keep your presser foot level and prevent the needle from bending or breaking. A textile mallet helps to flatten extremely thick areas before sewing.
Patience and machine control are key. When sewing over thick seam intersections (where there are often three or four layers of heavy fabric on top of each other), you should release the foot pedal and turn the handwheel manually. Also, be sure to use a height compensation plate (hump jumper) to keep your presser foot level and prevent the needle from bending or breaking. A textile mallet helps to flatten extremely thick areas before sewing.
Only use special, hardened denim needles from size 100, or even better, size 110. Thinner needles will break immediately on heavy denim. For thread, you should opt for extra-strong heavy-duty thread (e.g., special denim topstitching thread). Since the fabric is very heavy, the seams must withstand extreme tensile forces.
Only use special, hardened denim needles from size 100, or even better, size 110. Thinner needles will break immediately on heavy denim. For thread, you should opt for extra-strong heavy-duty thread (e.g., special denim topstitching thread). Since the fabric is very heavy, the seams must withstand extreme tensile forces.
