Because we love Japanese denim , we've focused exclusively on this product. Except for the yarn, all products come from Japan.

Denim weight is measured in ounces (oz) and indicates how heavy the fabric is per square meter. A higher weight generally means greater strength and durability, while lighter denim is more flexible and comfortable.

Yes, you can find more information here .

The choice of denim depends on your project and personal preferences. Consider what you plan to use the fabric for: Heavyweight denim is ideal for durable jeans, while lightweight denim is better suited for shirts or apparel.

However, if you would like to see the material in person, you can make an appointment here .

In general, we recommend 2.5m of selvage denim (approx. 80-90cm wide) to make a pair of jeans.
For non-selvage denim fabrics of approximately 150cm width, at least half the amount is required.

Elastane (also known as polyurethane) has a significant impact on denim's shrinkage. Here's an explanation of how the elastane content affects fabric shrinkage:

1. 100% cotton (shrinkage values: width 2%, length 2-4%)

• Description : 100% cotton denim shrinks more lengthwise than widthwise during the first wash. The fabric tends to stabilize slightly after drying, but retains its shape without losing elasticity.
• Shrinkage behavior : Shrinkage values ​​of 2% across the width and 2-4% across the length are typical for untreated cotton denim. This is because the cotton fibers shrink upon contact with water, especially along the length where the fabric tension is greater.

2. 98% cotton, 2% polyurethane (shrinkage values: width 2%, length 4-6%)

• Description : This blend offers a certain degree of elasticity, making the denim more stretchy and comfortable to wear. The elastane content allows the fabric to conform to the body, but this may result in slightly greater shrinkage in length.
• Shrinkage behavior : Despite the added stretch, the widthwise shrinkage remains similar to that of 100% cotton (2%). However, a greater lengthwise shrinkage of 4-6% is possible because the elastane threads, which are initially under tension, contract during the washing process. The material's elasticity means that the fabric is less likely to stretch back to its original length after drying.

3. 97% cotton, 3% polyurethane (shrinkage values: width 2%, length 4-6%)

• Description : With a higher elastane content, the denim offers even greater stretch and a better fit. This makes the fabric particularly suitable for body-hugging cuts like skinny jeans.
• Shrinkage behavior : The widthwise shrinkage also remains at 2%, as the stability of the weave remains unchanged. Lengthwise shrinkage remains at 4-6%, similar to the 98/2 blend. This is because the higher elastane content creates even more tension in the material, which is relieved during the washing process, causing the fabric to shrink more. After drying, the fabric retains a certain degree of elasticity, but this does not completely compensate for the lengthwise shrinkage.

Summary of the influence of elastane on shrinkage behavior

• Elastane increases the stretchability of denim, but has a greater impact on shrinkage in length because the elastane fibers are under tension and contract when washed.
• Despite the increased comfort and better fit achieved with elastane, buyers of denim fabrics must expect higher linear shrinkage values.
• The width remains largely stable, regardless of the elastane content, as the weave structure of the cotton threads maintains the main stability of the fabric.

Raw denim is an unwashed and untreated denim fabric that is processed directly in its original form after weaving. It is neither pre-washed nor chemically treated, which distinguishes it from other denim fabrics, which are often pre-washed or pre-bleached during the manufacturing process. Unlike reactive-dyed denim, which uses chemically fixed dyes, raw denim has its own unique characteristics and behaviors.

Color and structure:
Raw denim has a deep blue, almost stiff surface because it still retains its original woven structure. It is usually very strong and has a rough feel.
Typically, raw denim is dyed with indigo , resulting in an intense and rich color that wears off over time with wear and washing and can uniquely "fade" (so-called fades ).

Unique aging:
One of the key characteristics of raw denim is the natural development of individual fades along the creases, pockets, and knees. These fades are the result of wear and movement and give each piece a personal touch.
Because raw denim is untreated, it develops patina and individual fading over time, which is particularly attractive to collectors and denim enthusiasts.

Durability and shape
Raw denim is particularly durable because it retains its original, firm structure. The fabric softens over time but retains its shape and offers a long service life.
It adapts to the wearer's body shape through frequent wear, developing a perfect, individual fit.

Care instructions
Raw denim is often washed after several months of wear to avoid impairing the development of fades. It is recommended to wash the denim carefully and in cold water to preserve the color for as long as possible.

Reactive-dyed denim is a treated and often pre-washed fabric dyed with special chemical reactive dyes. These dyes form a strong bond with the cotton fibers through a chemical reaction, resulting in more durable, long-lasting colors that are less likely to bleed or fade.

Color & Structure
Reactive dyes produce bright, vibrant colors that are less likely to fade or bleach. Unlike indigo, the fades are generally less severe and more consistent.
The colors are also more durable in the washing machine, which makes care easier.

Softness and comfort
Reactively dyed denim is often softer and more flexible because the fabric is frequently pre-washed to prevent shrinkage or shrinkage. This makes it more comfortable to wear right from the start.
While it doesn't offer the same "aging process" as raw denim, it retains its shape and color over a longer period of time.

Care instructions
Unlike raw denim, reactive-dyed denim requires less specific care. It can be washed regularly without noticeable loss of color or texture.

How do I handle lightweight denim?

Needle: Use a fine needle (e.g. size 70/10 or 80/12).

Thread: Normal sewing thread is sufficient.

Foot: A standard foot is usually sufficient, but a fine foot can also be helpful.

Sewing machine: Make sure to set the machine to a light fabric type to avoid distortion.

How do I handle middle-weight denim?

Needle: A universal needle (e.g. size 80/12 or 90/14) works well.

Thread: A high-quality sewing thread is ideal.

Foot: A regular presser foot should be sufficient.

Sewing machine: A standard machine should be able to process medium weight, but always ensure a clean stitch pattern.

How do I handle heavy-weight denim?

Needle: Use a strong jeans needle (e.g. size 100/16).

Yarn: Choose a sturdy yarn that is specifically designed for denim.

Foot: A walking foot can help guide the fabric evenly.

Sewing machine: Make sure your machine is suitable for thicker fabrics and test on scraps first.

Please note that it is advisable to always practice on scrap fabric to find the best settings for your specific sewing machine and fabric used.

We're pleased to announce that we've partnered with SmartPattern, an innovative company specializing in creating trouser patterns. SmartPattern offers both standardized patterns and customized solutions specifically tailored to your individual measurements and preferences. This collaboration allows us to offer you an even wider range of options for your clothing projects, ensuring you receive perfect fit and quality. For more information about SmartPattern's various patterns and customized services, please visit their website .

With the code "Se1vagePattern" you can save 10% on your order twice.

When laying out the patterns, it's important to note the differences in width between selvage and non-selvage denim. An illustrative image is included in the fabric glossary.

Pre-washing any indigo-dyed fabric should be avoided at all costs, as the risk of wrinkles and/or fading—usually caused by spinning—is far too high. It is advisable to factor shrinkage into the pattern.

To properly wash untreated, or “raw,” denim, there are a few important steps that will help preserve the look and color of the fabric:

1. Preparation : Turn the jeans inside out to prevent the indigo from fading during washing. Fasten buttons and zippers, and empty the pockets.
2. Hand wash (gentler) : Fill a bathtub or sink with lukewarm water and add a mild, bleach-free detergent (preferably for delicate or dark fabrics). Optionally, add a splash of white vinegar to stabilize the color. Place the jeans in the water and let them soak for about 60 minutes, occasionally agitating them gently to loosen dirt. Then rinse thoroughly and let them air dry, preferably hanging.
3. Machine wash (more robust) : If washing your jeans in the machine, select a gentle cycle with cold water and a maximum of 900 revolutions per minute. Turn them inside out and add mild detergent and, optionally, a little vinegar. Remove immediately after washing and air dry to preserve color vibrancy.

Untreated, raw denim tends to bleed heavily due to excess indigo dye that hasn't been fixed. This particularly affects dark blue raw indigo denim, which can bleed onto surfaces and clothing—a process known as "bleeding." Especially in the first few weeks of wear, before the fabric naturally stabilizes, the indigo can bleed onto furniture, shoes, and even skin.

The risk of color transfer increases when denim comes into contact with light or white surfaces, or when it becomes damp, for example, from rain or body heat. To reduce staining, avoid contact with delicate materials and keep the denim as dry as possible. Alternatively, treating the denim with vinegar before first wear in a cold wash can help fix the dye. Proper drying, preferably by air drying, can also help the indigo stay more firmly in the fabric.

Each order will be shipped within 1-2 days after receipt of payment.

No, since this is cut-to-size fabric, this isn't possible. If you're unsure, order various samples as swatches .

Yes, you can order 10 5x10cm samples of the fabrics of your choice. Simply enter the desired fabrics in the "Order Notes" field in the invoice details during the payment process.

No – leftover fabric scraps are packed to the specified minimum size, up to 2.5 kg. Which denim fabric goes in and how much of each is random.