Natural Indigo: Nature's Legacy
While most denim today is dyed with synthetically produced indigo, "Natural Indigo" uses the dye from the true indigo plant. In Japan, this traditional process is known as Aizome and is considered the absolute supreme discipline of dyeing art. It is a process that goes far beyond simply dyeing textiles: it is a symbiosis of botany, chemistry, and decades of experience. The journey from the plant's seed to the deep blue yarn often takes over a year. Since the pigments are purely organically obtained, the fabric reacts differently to light, time, and friction than its industrial counterparts. The result is a textile that not only wears a color but tells a story and gains character with each passing day.
Everything you need to know about natural indigo
Synthetic indigo is highly pure and consists almost exclusively of the blue molecule indigotin. Natural indigo also contains organic impurities and accompanying plant substances (such as indirubin) which are responsible for the complex, vibrant color nuances.
Synthetic indigo is highly pure and consists almost exclusively of the blue molecule indigotin. Natural indigo also contains organic impurities and accompanying plant substances (such as indirubin) which are responsible for the complex, vibrant color nuances.
Extract dyeing uses concentrated powder. Traditional Japanese Sukumo, on the other hand, is based on indigo leaves fermented for months. This biological fermentation process in deep vats produces a blue that is considered "alive," as the depth of color varies with the age of the dye bath.
Extract dyeing uses concentrated powder. Traditional Japanese Sukumo, on the other hand, is based on indigo leaves fermented for months. This biological fermentation process in deep vats produces a blue that is considered "alive," as the depth of color varies with the age of the dye bath.
As the natural dye often absorbs more unevenly into hand-spun or irregular yarns, the abrasion emphasizes the vertical structure of the fabric (Tate-Ochi). This makes the blue appear more three-dimensional.
As the natural dye often absorbs more unevenly into hand-spun or irregular yarns, the abrasion emphasizes the vertical structure of the fabric (Tate-Ochi). This makes the blue appear more three-dimensional.
For a deep dark blue, the yarn is dipped in the indigo vat up to 20 times or more and oxidized in the air again. Each "kip" builds a new layer of color. With natural indigo, this process is significantly slower, which makes the color extremely stable against UV light.
For a deep dark blue, the yarn is dipped in the indigo vat up to 20 times or more and oxidized in the air again. Each "kip" builds a new layer of color. With natural indigo, this process is significantly slower, which makes the color extremely stable against UV light.
In fact, the opposite is often the case. Because the molecules are organic in origin and are often freed from excess particles by many washes during the dyeing process, high-quality Aizome yarn (after the first wash) often bleeds less aggressively than cheap sulfur denim.
In fact, the opposite is often the case. Because the molecules are organic in origin and are often freed from excess particles by many washes during the dyeing process, high-quality Aizome yarn (after the first wash) often bleeds less aggressively than cheap sulfur denim.
Traditionally, Aizome was valued in Japan because natural indigo has an antibacterial effect, is odor-inhibiting, and is even said to repel insects – ideal properties for workwear that is rarely washed.
Traditionally, Aizome was valued in Japan because natural indigo has an antibacterial effect, is odor-inhibiting, and is even said to repel insects – ideal properties for workwear that is rarely washed.
Look for the "cast": Synthetic indigo often appears very dark, almost black-violet when new. Natural indigo usually has a lighter, clearer cyan undertone and a warmth that shines through even in very dark fabrics.
Look for the "cast": Synthetic indigo often appears very dark, almost black-violet when new. Natural indigo usually has a lighter, clearer cyan undertone and a warmth that shines through even in very dark fabrics.
